Outfit of the Week

A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 6

Moving on to the Sleeves (Finally!)

After the Internal Yoke is basted in place, I was ready to put the sleeves in. Nothing special here, just normal assembly. After the sleeves were in place, I did put in a sleeve head. Sleeve Heads are narrow strips of soft fabric that is used to 'fill' the very upper section of the sleeve over the seam allowances to 'smooth' the area, thus preventing little wrinkles or the seam allowance showing through.

Sleeve Heads sound scary but they are really incredibly simple. You can purchase sleeve heads mail order, but I have made my own for years. I use a loose weave flannel (I hate to use the word, but think "cheap", as in quality) You want the flopsy stuff. Machine wash and dry several times to get all the shrinkage out, then cut on the bias into 1 1/2" x 8" strips. You will have enough sleeve heads from a 1/2yard of flannel to last for an entire wardrobe!

To insert a Sleeve Head, find the middle of the 8" length and match this up with the shoulder seam. Pin the Sleeve Head with the raw edges even with the raw edges of the armhole seam and with the Sleeve Head sitting inside on the sleeve. Work your way around the armhole, pinning the Sleeve Head in place until you get to the dots that marked the beginning and ending of the ease thread placement. Trim off any extra Sleeve Head at that point. Then, stitch the Sleeve Head to the armhole, exactly in the same location as the armhole seam you stitched when inserting the sleeve - just stitch right over the same stitches. So NOT trim the armhole seam allowances from the ease dot at the front over the should to the ease dot at the back, but only trim/grade the seam from the dots underneath and around the bottom back up to the other ease dot.

OK, then just turn the garment right side out and using a ham (if you have one) gently steam the sleeve seam area, settling all the fabrics into their final happy homes!

Every once in a while, when using flannel for Sleeve Heads, you will get too much fill and when you look at the outside, there will actually be a small 'mound'. Not to worry! Just go back inside and carefully trim the seam extension part of the Sleeve Head, NOT the part that extends into the sleeve top area. Then turn back right side out and steam a bit more. Removing the small "seam allowance" portion of the Sleeve Head will be enough to reduce the mounding effect and you will be pleased with the final result.

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 5

Adding Internal Structure with an Internal Yoke

Yippee, the Lining Pattern is finished and I am ready to move on. I wanted to add some internal stability to my Boucle' Jacket, but did not want the rigid structure of a true jacket, so decided to make an internal yoke (of sorts). First, I traced the armhole and shoulder area of the front and back (respectively). I traced the back at the neckline completely, but at the front I came down about 3", then turned and drew a curved line to about 2 1/2" under the arm at the side seam. I drew a matching line on the Back Internal Yoke Pattern so it matched at the underarm sideseam.

I cut the Internal Yokes from Batiste and stitched together at the shoulders and the sideseams. The, using the same Yoke Patterns, I cut out sew-in interfacing. I trimmed the seam allowance (1/2") off the neck and lower edges, but left the seam allowances at the shoulder and sideseam, choosing to overlap them instead. I then machine stitched wide rows (channel stitching) to secure the layers together.

When you have finished preparing the Internal Yoke, place it on the inside of the jacket. I chose to turn the interfacing toward the Habotai Silk, as I thought the Batiste might 'slide' better against the lining when assembled and the interfacing would be fine against the Habotai Silk and would never show through the Boucle'. Match at the armholes and neckline and pin to secure. Machine baste close to the edges to attach to the Jacket.

** A stronger fabric than Batiste would have been fine, but choose something that does not continue to shrink and especially is not prone to wrinkling. When you wash the garment later, you do not want to fight pressing the Internal Yoke!

** The reason I trimmed off the 1/2" seam allowances was to prevent an actual 'edge' to the Internal Yoke which might show through (not really an issue with Boucle') but a good practice, nonetheless.

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 4

Preparing the Front Lining and Lower Facings (and Sleeve Lining)

OK, now you have a pattern for the Back Lining. The Front is done almost the same. Place the Front Pattern Piece on the Table, then place the Front Facing piece on top. Draw the edge of the Front Facing -- this is the Cut Line for the Facing. Then draw a seamline 1/2" (back toward the front) -- this is the seamline. Then draw another line 1/2" (closer to the front) -- this is the Cut Line for the Front Lining. The picture at the right shows the lower Front Edge so you can see the finished lines. (This is exactly the same as you did for the Back Lining.

Also shown in the picture is the line for the Lower Front Facing. I find that if you cut the Linings the same length as the outer garment and use a 2 1/2" wide Lower Facing, it works out perfectly. Measuring up from the lower Cut edge of the Pattern Piece, draw a line 2 1/2" from the Edge. This is the Cut Line for the Lower Facing. Repeat for the Back. Notice that the Lower Facing uses the same cut line at center front as the Lining.

To create a Lining Pattern Piece for the Sleeve, draw a line up 2 1/2" from the lower Cut Edge -- This is the Cut Edge of the Sleeve Facing. OK -- here's where it gets a little interesting. The sleeve is usually narrower at the lower edge than up in the sleeve - i.e. it is descending at an angle. If you cut the Sleeve Lining the exact same as the sleeve, then the lower cut edge would not fit the Upper Cut Edge of the Sleeve Facing. So . . . . Draw another line 1/2" down from the first line. Staying true to the grainline, (this will keep you straight) draw a line straight down from this new line to the Lower Cut Edge. Use the same side cutlines as the sleeve from the line up toward the top of the sleeve.

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The Lower Front Facing area and Matching the Lower Facing with the Front Facing

A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 3

Preparing a pattern for the Lining

If your pattern does not have a provision for the lining, you can draw your own! You will need tracing paper, a ruler and a pencil. I would suggest 3 colored pencils. I always use red for the seamlines and then another color for the cut lines so I don't get confused if I get interrupted mid-way through a project.

Let's start with the Back because that's the easiest!
First, place the Back Paper Pattern piece on the table and tape lightly to secure. Then, place the Back Facing on top of the Back and match at the neckline. Draw a line on the Back along the lower curved edge of the Back Facing. This line is the cut edge of the Back Facing. Then, with a red pencil, measure in 1/2" (toward the neck) and draw another line. This will be the finished seamline between the Back Lining and the Back Facing. Then you need yet another line for the cut edge of the Back Lining. (See the 3rd picture). After you have the 3 lines and using tracing paper, trace the Back Lining Pattern, using the cut line you have drawn for the Back Lining and the side seams and lower edge the same as the Outer Garment Back (yes, the lower edge can be the same - I will explain later)

I am suggesting that you use the Back Lining and the Front Lining pieces provided in your pattern because they already match at the shoulder seam. If you do not have these pattern pieces, the lines can be wherever you would like them, but they do need to match at the shoulder seam. The third picture at the right shows all 3 lines. When you click the picture, the next picture is very large. You may have to actually click the 'next' picture to get the biggest view.

To finish the Back Lining, draw a line 1/2" out from the Center Back Fold Line. This is your "NEW" Center BAck Fold Line for the Lining. Then draw a dot down 2" from the top of the Lining Pattern Piece and 4" up from the bottom edge. With right sides together, stitch from the edge in to the dot at both the top and at the bottom, leaving the center portion unstitched. Press this pleat to one side (either side). This pleat will provide for extra ease when wearing. A note here -- a shirt pattern already has quite a bit of ease and in reality, you do not need this extra ease created by the back pleat. However, the pleat is customary and it doesn't hurt anything, so I wanted you to know how to do it -- but if you don't want the pleat it would be ok -- IF you are using a true shirt pattern.

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 2

After you have prepared each Garment Section by stabilizing with the underlining, and stitching any darts, etc. you can go ahead and do the basic assembly of the Body and Sleeves, but do NOT put the sleeves in yet. (i.e. you can put the side and shoulder seams in)

Handling the seams -- You cannot really press Boucle' too much or you will flatten the gorgeous texture. However you do want the seams to stay open. The way I handle this is first, I use an old piece of wool (blanket, fabric, whatever) on the ironing board under the garment as I am pressing. This will protect the texture without flattening it out whereas the regular hard fabric of the ironing board would flatten the fabric. I open up the seam with my finger, then, using just the edge of the iron, press the center - the actual seam itself - lightly to press it open.

Then, I hand-tacked each side of the seam to the underlining so the seam will always stay open, even when I need to hand-wash this jacket in the future. Those of you who hate to hold a hand-needle, don't cringe, this only takes a few minutes!

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 1

Click any of the images for a much larger picture

Before we start this project, there are a few thoughts I want to share with you.

If you are have a shirt pattern -- a true shirt pattern with the larger armholes, not a basic shell type pattern that buttons down the front -- you can use that pattern to make a jacket, as long as you are aware of the differences and are willing to make a few compromises. A shirt block is lower in the armhole and the armhole itself is larger around. You can tailor and fit all you want, but the back of the armhole will remain larger. This may be perfectly fine if you are going for comfort, but you should not expect to achieve a Suit Jacket look -- it just won't happen. On the otherhand, if you love all those fun jackets in Coldwater Creek, then you will be just fine with using a Shirt Block pattern for a jacket, because all those jacket in Coldwater Creek are really shirts with linings. Weekly Outfit for Week 25 used the Rio Blanco as a Jacket.

All of the patterns in the Shirt Club Series of patterns from Brensan Studios are true Shirts, so if you're thinking jackets, the entire collection would be suitable.

Ok, moving on . . . . .

I wanted a Classic Black Boucle' Jacket in my wardrobe for an occasional Business Meeting or a chilly night out. I wanted a Casual Double Breasted silhouette, but without the buttons and formality. I decided that I did not want a collar and that I wanted very plain sleeves, with the thought that plain was good for business and if I was dressed up, then my blouse or dress might be the interest and I didn't want the jacket to compete. So . . . . I decided that the Romantica Blouse (pictured above) with the plain neckline would make a great body. It was already a longer length which was just what I wanted. For the sleeve, I knew I wanted a set-in sleeve which ruled out the Sew Simple because it is a Shirt Sleeve. I decided that the Barcelona Blouse had almost the sleeve I wanted, it was just a 3/4, so I could easily lengthen it and add a little bit of width (circumference) at the wrist. I made a quick test garment to get the sleeve the way I wanted it and then I was ready to start (because I already had the Romantica tested out :-)

I had already machine washed and machine dried the Boucle' (Yes Really!) Remember that at my house, EVERYTHING goes in the washer and dryer. However it comes out is what it was always meant to be!

Step 1:
To stabilize the Boucle' I decided to completely underline it with China Silk (Habotai). Place the underlining fabric on a large flat surface and square the grain. Place the garment section on the underlining and make sure that the grainline of both fabrics is the same. Pin the Garment Section to the underlining around the entire perimeter and across the inner section in rows.

You will be tacking the 2 fabrics together by hand (Sorry!) but truly, this does not take very long, so give it a try.

Working from the Front (Right) Side and beginning at the side (for instance the side seam, just under the armhole -- or whereever) make very long running stitches (about 1" to 1 1/4" long) across the garment section. The long part of the stitch is on the back. On the front side, go back in basically in the same place you came out so the outer part of the stitch is very tiny, but does catch a few threads of the Boucle'. Knot off at the other side. Do NOT pull the threads tight, you are tacking, not sewing. DO knot at the the beginning of your row and at the end so the thread will not back out. Keep stitching rows about every 1 1/2" to 2 inches apart the entire length of the Garment Section.

When you are finished, cut away the underlining to match the outer Fashion Fabric.

Step 2:
Machine stitch around the entire perimeter about 3/8" from the raw edge to baste the 2 fabrics together. Then, repin the Garment Section to your Paper Pattern Piece.
Important: The ink on many patterns (including mine) will transfer to your iron or to your ironing board with steam and heat. Put down a single layer of papertowels to protect from this ink transfer! Using lots of steam and a press cloth, press (do NOT iron) the garment section while it is pinned to the Paper Pattern Piece. This will reblock the Garment section to stabilize any stretching or distortion that occurred with tacking or stitching the edges.

Step 3:
While you have the Paper Pattern Piece handy, transfer any darts or other markings to the wrong side (the innerlining fabric). If you are stitching darts, stabilize the dart by drawing a line where the center of the dart will be and then machine stitching down the center of the dart. You can also see this technique in the Red Silk Shirt project that started in February 2010.

You know how dog people always end up talking about their dogs? I have talked to so many people around the country in various sewing guilds, shop owners, suppliers, etc, seems like everyone I know has dogs . . . . . so let me introduce my two 4-footed children. Max (left) is a 10 year old Australian Dingo. We rescued him from a ranch here in Arizona. Seems he was much more interested in chasing the rabbits than herding cows and he just wasn't fitting into the ranch work schedule at all :-) Missy ( right) is also about 10 years old. Some friends of ours rescued her when she was a very young puppy from a dumpster in Rocky Point, Mexico, covered in trash and paint. She was sick and so tiny, they stuffed her in the cabinets of their motor home and smuggled her through customs. Yes, she is an illegal alien. She's got her mouth open because she is hoping another cookie will appear!