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Bren's Sewing Blog Archives
March 2010

March 25, 2010

Soutache Braid - More than a Trim

What is Soutache? Remember the gold trim on military uniforms and costumes? That's Soutache. It can be a fabulous decorative trim applied (different tip on this later) to the surface of a fabric, but it also makes wonderful button loops. Soutache is available in any most fabric stores - comes in lots of colors - is very inexpensive - doesn’t come out of the seam - and is flat and easy to use. Give it a try and it may become your next favorite ‘Sewing Trick’.
-- My favorite use for Soutache Braid is for button loops - quick, easy and I don't have to make tiny tubes :-)

1) Cut soutache into 4” lengths and set aside. 2) Mark button loops placement on the right front garment section and at the raw edge (center front). 3) Pin one end of the soutache at the loop position. Measure the loop created and pin the other end of the soutache in place. Trim the soutache so all raw edges are even. Note: It is important to make sure the ‘loop’ is a good size for the button you will be using. Here is a guide, but you may want to run a test - just to make sure:
3/8” button - 1” loop
1/2” button -1 1/8” loop
5/8” button - 1 1/4” loop
This technique is included in the Tsing Tao Tunic and the Raglan Topper

We carry Soutache Braid in assortments of 6 colors, 1 yard each

March 19, 2010

Flat Seat Adjustment for Slacks/Pants

I wish they could come up with a better name than Flat Seat, but that's what it is called. If you have extra fabric under the tush in a pair of pants or slacks, there is a great pattern alteration that can eliminate that excess fabric out in the middle of the seat area. I am not about to redraw all these diagrams, and Ann Rowley has done an excellent job of photographing and explaining this technique, so here is a link for her Flat Seat Adjustment. Click the smaller image toward the right of the screen and you will get the next photo in sequence. The instructions are below the large picture.

However, if anyone is reading this blog at any point in the future and this link does not work, please email me and let me know so I can make sure and get the instructions available to future viewers as this really is one of the more important and commonly needed pants adjustments.

Some people just naturally have a flatter seat than others, but we can also need this adjustment as we get older because in addition to the whole gravity thing, the amount of arch in our back changes. As we get less arch, out tush goes in, and voila a flat seat. Someone should have warned me about all this!!!!

March 11, 2010 A Not So Basic Shirt - Completed This shirt/jacket was featured in the Weekly Outfit for Week 41

March 11, 2010

Sorry for the gap in posting. I got busy with a trip to see my grandson and celebrating my 50th birthday. But the festivities are over and I am back to work in my studio!
. . . Also, I archived the January blog postings, so if you missed anything, just click the link on the left for the Blog Archives Page.

For the earlier post relating to this project, please visit the February 2010 Blog Archives. A Not So Basic Shirt, Part 4 The Red Silk Not-so-Basic Shirt Project continues. . . We already staystiched the cut line for the sleeve placket opening in an earlier post, so now I just needed to cut from the raw edge up along the slit, then attach the sleeve placket in the traditional manner. I underlined both pieces of the cuff with silk organza for a little extra stability, but otherwise, it was construction as usual. OK, almost done, just need to make and attach the buttons. I really love covered buttons. They look so classy, they're easy to make and very inexpensive. What more could you ask for? I used 5/8" buttons, although the pattern calls for 1/2". You can easily go up or down 1/8" on buttons if you can't find what you like in the size that is specified. If you change more than 1/8" though, be careful as you will need to make some other modifications. When you cover buttons, a lot will depend on the fabric you are using. If you are using an open weave fabric, a fabric that will fray or a fabric that is other 'special', you will want to attach fusible interfacing to the back side. This is one of the few time I use fusibles, and virtually the only time I will use tricot. That being said, I do like tricot for buttons as you can see in the picture. Instructions always come with the buttons for covering. Make sure you keep the little plastic cup and mold, because you can just buy the refills next time. If you have covered buttons, give yourself a couple of practice buttons before you go for the good fabric. It truly is easy, just follow the pictures on the package and you'll be a pro in no time! Click any of the images for a much larger picture
		Fusible tricot on back side of fabric before covering buttons
		Ready to cover the buttons
		Finished and ready to attach to your garment.