Outfit of the Week

The Cowl Neck Tunic in a Sheer Fabric

I am making a new Cowl Neck Tunic for the front cover of the pattern in my ongoing project to update the pattern covers. This particular sample is from a very sheer fabric. The body of the Cowl Neck Tunic is 2 layers -- the outer print fabric is the sheer and the inner fabric is Habotai (China) Silk. The Cowl itself and the sleeves are a single layer of the sheer print fabric.

It seems like any time you make a pattern from a different fabric (especially a sheer) you run into little things that need to be handled differently than the pattern specified. In the case, the cowl portion on the front of neck is single layer. The underlining is white china silk (because that is what I had!) I decided to make the inside back from the china silk as well because I needed the strength of the silk for the facing and I did not have a closer color, so white it was. The snag was that I wanted to make very sure that the white lining did not peep out when the garment was worn, so I slightly changed the way the pattern specifies to handle the shoulder seam. The pattern has you wrap the back over the front (on the inside). I did it in reverse (see the top picture) and wrapped the front over the back so that on the outside, when the garment is worn, the cowl portion will encase the shoulder seam and you will not see the facing - ever!

This particular pattern has a bust dart and I did not want to stitch the dart in the sheer fabric. No problem -- just run a gather thread on the side front in the dart area -- from about 1" above the upper leg of the dart to and 1" below the lower leg of the dart, then when you pin the front to the back, gather the bust area instead of stitching the dart.

I knew I wanted the body of the garment to hang freely (each layer separately) from the underarm down. I basted the 2 layers together around most of the armhole before stitching the side seam. I did this because it was easier to handle the slippery layers while the garment was flat. I did, however, leave about 1" each side of the side seam open. When I was ready to stitch the side seams, I stitched each layer separately. I did not want the seam of the lining to show, so I put that seam on the inside as well. When all 4 seams were stitched and edged, I finished basting the 2 layers together around the lower portion of the armhole.

As for finishing the seam, you can use your serger, but if you want to reduce the amount of thread on a sheer fabric, use the rolled edge feature on your serger with just 2 threads. (See the 2nd picture)

I finished the top, but it is loaded with starch so has to be washed before I can put it on and photograph. Will try to get it posted early next week.

A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 10

Yippee!! Finally Finished!

I am not covering the actual installation of the lining here as every jacket packet with a lining provides instructions for bagging a lining (putting the lining in the jacket). I will do a separate post sometime in the future, but for now I am really wanting to move on to other subjects.

I chose a colorful lining for the jacket that was a polyester (yes, sigh). Since it will obviously be a winter jacket anyway (here in Arizona) poly for the lining is not such a big deal. It will be warm, but then, so will the jacket, and besides, I already had the fabric and it looks really cool as a lining.

I know the black pants do not make a very exciting outfit, but that picture is all about the lining. Check out the Outfit of the Week for another (closed) view of the jacket.

Just as an aside . . . . it is really a challenge to photograph black bouclé!

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 9

Moving on to Shoulder Pads . . . .

I have actually been wanting to talk about shoulder pads for quite a while, so am glad I finally have a chance to expound on them. While the block-and-tackle shoulder pads of the 70's are long gone (and good riddance!), a thin shoulder pad can do wonders for a garment. The purpose of a shoulder pad is not to make you look like you have huge shoulders, but rather they smooth out the shoulder area and fill in the socket that all of us have between our collar bones and our shoulders - this 'hole' causes many garments to cave in and lose their shape and a shoulder pad can easily smooth out this area for a more refined, "finished" look to your garment.

That being said, you cannot find the shoulder pad you need (IMHO) at Joannes. There, I've said it!

For the Bouclé Jacket, I wanted a thin, but long shoulder pad. My favorite (and what I use in all the jackets you will see on this website) is a 1/4" foam or fiber filled (but covered) shoulder pad ---- that is 7" (or more) long. Most of the ones you can find are much shorter and they stop right at that socket point instead of going over the socket to smooth it out. Remember that I wass EVERYTHING and dryclean nothing, so my shoulder pads have to be washable.

Here are a couple of sources:
Vogue Fabric Store - this page
Sew True - this page

Find the center of the straight side of the shoulder pad and place this (on the inside) in alignment with the shoulder seam of the jacket. I place the edge of the filling even with the edge of the seam extensions. Put a pin in the pad and seam extension to hold in place. Work your way around the edge of the armhole until you read one end of the shoulder pad. Usually the final edge (point) of the shoulder pad will line up with the seam itself at this point. Do NOT baste together yet! Hold or pin in position, then repeat for the other end of the shoulder pad. Then turn the jacket right side out and put on a mannequin or slip on yourself (or a volunteer similar to your size) The lower pins (at the points) will not be in exactly the correct position, but they will be close. Before you fuss with the points, go ahead and put a pin (on the outside) about 4" up (toward the neck) on the shoulder seam to catch the shoulder pad and hold it in place.

The pints at the points will most likely be causing a bit of pucker. Perfectly normal! Simple reach inside and remove the pin -- then repin (on the inside of you can twist your hand!) in a better position so everything is smooth. When you happy with the look on the outside, go back inside and prepare to attach the shoulder pad.

I use a double thread and start with the shoulder area at the outside. Loose whipstitch through the fabric covering of the shoulder pad and the seam extensions. Do not pull tight enough to actually dent the shoulder pad. Make several stitch and knot off. Then go to one point -- Take a stitch in the point of the shoulder pad, then a stitch in the edge of the seam extension beside the point. Leave about 1/2" play (extra) in the thread. Take several stitches on each side, continueing to leave the play. If desired, wrap the thread around the "play" threads to make them stay together, but this is not absolutely necessary. Repeat for the other point. Then loose baste the shoulder area (toward the neck) attaching the shoulder pad to the shoulder seam extensions.

Voila, One shoulder pad attached. Not repeat for the other side. It does get much faster after you have done a few sets, so don't let the 'fussing' discourage you. Your efforts will be rewarded!

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 8

Still Working Inside . . . .

We all know it -- that its what you don't see that makes the difference. The inside stabilizers, underlining, yadda, yadda, yadda make all the difference in the quality of the finished garment, and somehow you can just see the difference when you wear the garment. It just hangs better --- but at this point, I am soooo ready to be finished!

In thinking about how I want to wear the jacket, I know that I may occasionally want to actually close the jacket for a more formal look, but I will usually wear it open. A Wrap/Double Breasted Jacket that is fairly tailored has a really nice look when open, somehow casual, but still with elegance . . . . .

When the jacket is open, I do NOT want to see ANYTHING -- no snaps, no ties, nothing, but I still need a way to close the jacket and it wear well in the closed position. I decided to insert a small piece of black Soutache Braid at the top edge of the straight part in the front and to sew a single black button in the corresponding position on the Jacket Left. The soutache would not really be seen, so this was great.

The Romantica is designed so the Right Front crosses over to the Left Dart Alignment, so it was pretty straightforward to put the button over the Dart. This would give me the extra reinforcement of the dart, but I am just toooooo picky, so I added a square of fabric on the inside of the jacket in the button location as extra insurance. Probably overkill, but oh well . . . . .

As for the inside ties, I think it is wise to still plan on the ties, as they take quite a bit of load away from the button. I took a long strip of Seam Binding*, folded it so it was double (still full width, but with a fold at one end) and stitched it together along each long edge. I can't attach this yet, but will need it after the lining is in and the jacket is technically completed.

* The kind you can find at Joannes, etc is Polyester, this is just fine. I use Rayon Seam Binding which I get by the roll from Atlanta Thread.

I LOVE using Soutache Braid, but make sure you stitch -- and stitch -- and stitch it to the seam extensions so it will NEVER come out!

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 7

Stabilizing the Long Front Neck Edge

Any pattern, but especially a Wrap Style, because it has even more neck area on the bias, will benefit from an internal stabilizing. I don't necessary mean adding extra crispness or bulk, but rather adding a thin strip of fabric that is cut on the square of the grain into the seam, thus preventing the seam from stretching out with wear.

In the picture at the right, You will see the prepared Front/Back Facing (inside out) pinned in position around the entire neckline area. On top of the Facing you will see a light grey strip about 1" wide that has been torn, thus assuring that it is on the straight of the grain (or crosswise, either is ok). I pinning the torn strip with raw edges even along the edge so that when I sew the facing to the garment, I will just stitch through all layers. I only used the strip on the Front Edge because I used a firm interfacing for stability on the Back Facing.

Speaking of the Back Facing, since this fabric is Boucle', I thought that my necklace clasp would snag the Boucle if I worn a shell or other similar blouse underneath, so I used a piece of Black Dupioni Silk for the visible fabric on the Back Facing. Looks great when you see the inside and will not snag my necklace.

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A Bouclé Wrap Jacket, Part 6

Parts 1-5 of A Boucle' Jacket are in April, 2010

Moving on to the Sleeves (Finally!)

After the Internal Yoke is basted in place, I was ready to put the sleeves in. Nothing special here, just normal assembly. After the sleeves were in place, I did put in a sleeve head. Sleeve Heads are narrow strips of soft fabric that is used to 'fill' the very upper section of the sleeve over the seam allowances to 'smooth' the area, thus preventing little wrinkles or the seam allowance showing through.

Sleeve Heads sound scary but they are really incredibly simple. You can purchase sleeve heads mail order, but I have made my own for years. I use a loose weave flannel (I hate to use the word, but think "cheap", as in quality) You want the flopsy stuff. Machine wash and dry several times to get all the shrinkage out, then cut on the bias into 1 1/2" x 8" strips. You will have enough sleeve heads from a 1/2yard of flannel to last for an entire wardrobe!

To insert a Sleeve Head, find the middle of the 8" length and match this up with the shoulder seam. Pin the Sleeve Head with the raw edges even with the raw edges of the armhole seam and with the Sleeve Head sitting inside on the sleeve. Work your way around the armhole, pinning the Sleeve Head in place until you get to the dots that marked the beginning and ending of the ease thread placement. Trim off any extra Sleeve Head at that point. Then, stitch the Sleeve Head to the armhole, exactly in the same location as the armhole seam you stitched when inserting the sleeve - just stitch right over the same stitches. So NOT trim the armhole seam allowances from the ease dot at the front over the should to the ease dot at the back, but only trim/grade the seam from the dots underneath and around the bottom back up to the other ease dot.

OK, then just turn the garment right side out and using a ham (if you have one) gently steam the sleeve seam area, settling all the fabrics into their final happy homes!

Every once in a while, when using flannel for Sleeve Heads, you will get too much fill and when you look at the outside, there will actually be a small 'mound'. Not to worry! Just go back inside and carefully trim the seam extension part of the Sleeve Head, NOT the part that extends into the sleeve top area. Then turn back right side out and steam a bit more. Removing the small "seam allowance" portion of the Sleeve Head will be enough to reduce the mounding effect and you will be pleased with the final result.

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