 November 1, 2010
Stretch Pants and Pattern Changes - Part 2
Long Leggings
For a super comfortable, totally contemporary look, add a pair of leggings to your pattern collection! Start with the Leggings Fit Pants you developed from the Southern Comfort Stretch Pants Pattern (see Part 1 of this series). If you are coming in to the blog at this point, please make sure and read Part 1 of this series.
I made 2 pair of leggings - both cut from exactly the same pattern - one in a dancewear type of stretch fabric (with a lot of lycra) and another pair from a cotton knit with only a little lycra. A big tip here -- when making leggings, the less lycra, the more 'bag' you will get - i.e the fabric will stretch out a bit and stay there -- ok in a soft cotton for a really casual weekend look, but not the look you want for a more a more upbeat outing.
. . . . Back to the 2 pair of leggings I made . . .. The dancewear fabric is shown at the right with the Ebisu Tunic. Note the length is right at the ankle. The 2nd pair I made from a cotton knit with less lycra. Because the fabric did not have as much side stretch, the leggings shortened -- also because of less lycra, they bagged a bit. I was careful to not clean up the image in Photoshop, so you could see the real deal - bags and all! The cotton is fine for a casual day at home or out, but the dancewear version has more impact.
 Before I give you the actual steps to make the alteration, let me share a trick. Because stretch pants patterns already have (built in the design) any excess fabric removed from under the tush area and upper back thigh, the Pants Back can be a bit tricky to make these alterations to in such a way that the seams still align perfectly with the front. Rather than cause yourself frustration, do the alterations to the Pants Front -- then -- put the front and back together at the original cutting line (inner or outer, but 1 at a time). Line up the original cut lines and temporarily staple or pin the 2 pattern pieces together. Then trace the new cut lines onto the Back. You will need to twist the pattern pieces a bit to line up the edges (especially on the inseam) - this is due to the 'designed in' snugness of the Pants Back - just take your time, line up the edges and trace the Back to match the Front. This is assuming you are using vellum or transparent paper -- otherwise cut out both the Front and the Back on the original cutting lines, line up the edges, temporary pin together and cut them both at the same time.
OK, here goes . . . . .
1. Make a new tracing of your stretch pants pattern - Legging Fit
2. Put on one of your existing pants and using the existing pair as a guide, determine where you want the hem of your leggings to be -- make a note of the difference. Leggings are several inches shorter than regular "dress" length pants. Some of the new styles make the leggings quite long and let it bunch at the ankle, other styles are about 1" above the ankle bone itself. You decide!
3. Draw in your new hemline on both the Front and the Back pattern pieces
4. Draw another line 1 1/4" hem below your new hemline. This is your new cut line.
5. Draw in your seamline for a couple inches each side of the crotch point - down the inseam and up around the crotch seam.
6. Draw a line exactly across the grainline through the finished crotchpoint seamline (the place where the 2 seamlines intersect. Draw this line all the way across your pattern.
7. Repeat Steps 3, 4, 5 and 6 on the Pants Back
8. Working on the Pants Front, at the hemline on the outside seamline, mark a point that is 2 1/4" IN from the existing cut line. Using a very long straight edge ruler (something that is long enough and straight), draw a new outer cut line from the new hemline up to the line you drew across the pattern (through the crotchpoint).
9. On the Inseam, at the hemline, draw a point that is 2 1/4" IN from the existing cut line.
10. Using a very long straight edge, draw a new cut line from the very top at the crotch point (existing cut line) down to your new point at the hemline.
11. Because the side seam is at an angle, you need the hem turnup fabric to angle back out to match the side seams.
Fold up the lower edge along the new hemline that you drew in Step 3. At the side seams (inner and outer) trace the side seam from your hemline to the lower cutline.
12. Following my tip above, line up the original cut lines of the Front and Back and temporarily pin together. Trace or cut the Back to Match the Front.
. . . . . So to summarize and really, really shorten these instructions . . . .
1. Mark a new hemline.
2. Taper the side seams (inner and outer) from a point level with the crotchpoint to the new hemline.
3. Do the Front First, then match the Back to the Front.
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