Outfit of the Week

Stretch Pants and Pattern Changes - Part 1

I thought it might be interesting to talk about stretch pants for a little while, so this will be another mini series . . . .
For all the discussions about fit and different styles that you can make with simple pattern changes, I will be using the Southern Comfort Stretch Pants Pattern.

Before I dive off the deep end about all the easy changes you can make to your pattern for completely different looks, I want to talk about the 2 basic types of fit - both of which can be obtained with the same pattern. For discussion purposes I will called them Casual Fit and Legging Fit. In the future blogs on these stretch pants, any of the alterations can be done to either the Casual Fit or the Legging Fit, depending on your personal preference. Both styles are great to have in your collection, so well worth the time up front to refine the fit and have your master patterns available for future style versions.

Below you will see 2 different pairs of stretch pants -- The Green Print is a Casual Fit, common in travel leisure wear. If you look at the side view, at the back, right under the tush you will see that the pants fall straight down from the fullest part of the tush, and fall pretty much straight (although there is a little bit of taper to make them look nice - this is in the pattern). The other pair in the animal print fabric is the Legging Fit and is considerably snugger. If you look at the side view, you can see that they fit much closer under the tush and in the front. (They are destined to be worn under a tunic!)

I started with the Animal Pants (or the Legging Fit), but you can start with either fit. I cut on the cutting lines that are at or slightly smaller than my measurements from the upper thigh up through the body part of the pants. Be judicious! Start with the lines that correspond to your measurements and take in your test pair until you have your desired fit. It took a couple of test garments to get the stride right where I wanted it, so be prepared to make a couple of pairs to get it perfect and to your personal taste.

To get to the Green Casual Fit Pants, I cut all leg seams (inner and outer) 1 1/2 sizes larger on the Green Print than on the Animal Print. On the Crotch Seam, I went out 1 size at the waist, blending to the the same line at the lower center of the crotch where it joins with the leg inseams. Because the Green Print Pants are a little longer in the crotch than the animal print pants -- at the waist cutting line, I drew a new line 1/4" higher than the line I used for the Animal Pants.

Let me say that another way: The Casual Fit (Green Print) Pants are larger than the Animal Print Pants (Legging Fit)in the following areas:

Outer Side Seam: 1 1/2 sizes
Inner Leg Seam: 1 1/2 sizes
Upper Cut Edge at Waist: 1/4" higher
Crotch Seam: 1 size at the upper waist area, tapering to same at crotch where it crosses the inner leg seams.

You can start from either pair, whatever you wish. Both fits are great to have in your pattern inventory. In the next blog, I will show you how to taper the legs on the Legging Fit for the slim leggings that are so popular right now under tunics.

Pattern Talk - Printed Master Patterns

All of the Brensan Patterns, and many of the patterns from other independent designers are printed on heavier weight white paper. This heavier weight paper is nice from the perspective that the pattern is more durable and you can trace off your desired sizes, while still preserving the master pattern for future use, rather than cutting up the actual master pattern.

I do need to offer one important thing to consider, however. Due to some of the printing machines and methods of printing, the ink, while completely stable will slightly transfer if you need for some reason to iron the master pattern. If you want to iron the pattern, cover your ironing board with paper towels, then place the master pattern ink side down (toward the paper towels) and iron the pattern on low to medium with NO steam. If any ink did transfer, it will be on the paper towels and not on your ironing board cover.

Pattern Talk - Permanent Pattern Paper

When I have the final pattern the way I want it and am ready to make a permanent pattern, I like the pattern papers that feel like very lightweight interfacing. There are several products available and they can be used for tracing off a pattern and in some cases they profess to be useable for making a test garment, although IMHO, I think that actual fabric is much more effective for test garments.

I have used several of these products over the years, but have settled on Pellon Easy Pattern as an easily available, very inexpensive product, that will get the job done. I admit that the Swedish Tracing Paper product is somewhat nicer, but it is expensive, so the Pellon works for me. Check your local fabric or quilt store first, but you also get this product at any of the larger chain stores.

I would like to offer one significant caviat, though. I ALWAYS pre-iron the Pellon Easy Pattern, with very little or no steam. This product WILL shrink a tiny bit and you want to make sure that you completely preshrink the product before tracing off your pattern. That way, if you ever get the pattern wrinkled and need to press it later on, it will not shrink on you. I just cut a section slightly larger than the pattern piece I want to trace off -- and iron it. I do iron slow and I iron from both sides, just giving it time to stabilize.

Clik to Enlarge

Pattern Talk - Permanent Patterns

When I am developing patterns, I always use tracing vellum. The vellum can actually be used for quite a long time. I have been known to put clear tape over the pin areas when the holes start to degrade the vellum past use, but at some point, I really have to stop long enough to make a permanent pattern. If you are only going to make something a couple of times, the vellum is fine, but if you are going to use the pattern as a fundamental in your sewing wardrobe, then it deserves to transferred to a permanent medium. More on that in a future post.

There are lots of articles in various magazines about fusing interfacing to the back of your commercial tissue patterns, but I have not used a commercial tissue pattern in years. I also confess to not being very fond of tissue and all of the Brensan patterns are on 50pound real paper, so you can trace off whatever you need and preserve the original pattern for future use.

OK, back to the vellum. Whether you are tracing off your pattern from a printed pattern or developing your own pattern (or variation of a pattern) vellum is a great thing to have around. I would caution you that if you DO get it wrinkled, use a very cool iron and NO steam -- and iron quick. It will shrink on you. But if you fold the pattern pieces neatly and put them in a folder or envelope, then you will never have to iron them.

The vellum I like to use is made by Borden Riley and you buy it in 12", 18" or 24" wide rolls of 50yard rolls. Here are a few online suppliers, but you might check with your local quilt or fabric store first. I have also seen the 12" rolls in office supply stores like Staples (in the Architectural supply section)

Drafting Supplies.US
Artstuff.Net
MisterArt (my favorite supplier)