Outfit of the Week

The Bellagio in Shirting Fabric and Stripes

I have talked about Shirting Fabric before, but here I go again . . . . I had a beautiful coral striped cotton shirting fabric and decided to make up the Bellagio Blouse, complete with the ruffles. The real fun is in playing with the grainlines and the stripes. I love stripes, they are so crisp and it's almost like they have an attitude. Sorry, but no sweet florals for me -- give me something that has character. Shirting fabric is almost always 100% cotton, although it can be a blend of silk, linen, etc. A good quality shirting fabric is such a fine weave that it can feel like silk, even though it's cotton, yet it is machine washable/dryable and comfortable to wear. If you like this fabric, you can find it in the Shirting Fabric section of the website (at least for now!)

I did use the center back seam, even though it meant that I had to carefully match the stripes, but the shaped back seam creates a much more tailored fit to the blouse than a straight center back placed on a fold. Well worth the effort.

The pattern as it is designed has the vertical seams straight (with only the side seam shaped in at the waist), but I like a bit more tailoring - see Outfit of the Week 39 for details on both the waist tailoring as well as taking in the sleeve a little bit.

Instead of the tiny button loops, I opted for a double row of buttons. One set of the buttons is on the Vanity Placket and the other row of buttons is just for visual interest. I did this same technique on the Bellagio I made in Dupioni Silk in Outfit of the Week 43.

Covered buttons were the only option as I thought anything else would compete with the beautiful stripe play.

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Collar Cave In

I was going through a style magazine last night (something I do a lot) and I saw this picture. It really is a great, classic shirt and a style that will always work in any wardrobe. On the other hand, I just had to groan. I know I'm super picky about sewing related things (actually, I'm picky about everything, just ask my husband!), but I truly do not like stand collars that cave in like this example. Virtually ALL stand collar shirts (men's and women's) that are constructed in the traditional manner will cave in like this. I prefer the neckline to lay open. In the following examples, the shirt is being worn open, so they lay out a bit more than they do when worn buttoned up.

	OR THIS:

The reason the collar caves in is that there is no internal support at the neck edge of the actual garment piece (primarily the front). The back sometimes has a yoke, which provides support, but even without a yoke, the curve of the back neck stand will hold the collar up. It is the front that will droop down without some help. The traditional method of using a button placket down the front (or just folding over) and then putting the collar stand on at the neck edge (without any type of front facing) does not provide for any form of support. This works great if you're wearing a tie, but if left open it will droop down. It may be the traditional method, but I have never been traditional, and I'd just as soon not start now!

My classic shirt (Basic Long Sleeve Shirt) pattern uses a front facing (like a regular lapel shirt does) and the collar is prepared, then attached to the neck edge with the facing over it (like a sandwich) just like you were making a lapel blouse. It is much easier and the front of your shirt does not cave in.

If you're using a sheer fabric, such that the facing would create a color difference, thus showing through to the right side, underline the facing with a flesh-colored slick lining (like China Silk/Habotai). I keep a stock on hand for just this purpose. I usually do not even use an actual interfacing (or even another layer of fabric, as the single layer of the outer fabric (that would show when it lays open) and the China Silk are usually 'just' enough to give support without getting too stiff looking. If I need anything else, it would be a single layer of batiste. Don't go overboard!

Ready, Set, Flute!

I know I use the Wisteria a lot for examples, but it is such a perfect GoTo Pattern!

I had 2 yards of this yummy silk which I found at Gorgeous Fabrics, and I was determined that it would be enough for a soft, feminine summer top.

First order of issue, was to trace off the front of my Wisteria Sleeveless Pullover and add a 1/2" seam allowance all the way down the front. I did not need a different front facing as you will see later.

I started with the 3" flute pattern we made a few blogs back. The silk chiffon was so soft, even after starching, that I was not pleased with the serger rolled edge, especially on the curves, so I decided to self-line the chiffon. The print does show through, but it just adds to the effect -- and I had enough fabric, so what the heck!

I cut 3 pairs of the 3" flute. I put 3 sections together for the outer side and the other 3 sections together for the lining/underside. I lengthened the stich length on my serger to finish the seams so there would be less thread to possibly show through. Then I put the lining to the outer flutes, stitched around the outer edge, serged off, and every so carefully pressed the seam. Then I basted the inner curved layers together. I just left the ends open because I was sure I would just spin them into a seam.

After frittering with the ruffle for a while I ended up simply finding the exact center and placing that at center back. Then I worked my way around the neckedge, clipping and pivoting at the center front (neck edge) and then running all the way down the center front seam. I spun the end out so the outer edge (finished edge) of the flute was at the center front seam at the hemline. It wouldn't have had to go to the hemline, just make sure that you spin both sides out at the same spot, so they line up nicely later. If it had stopped shorter, it would have still looked just as good. Just twist it, it will always work. Trim off the extra even with the raw edge of the Blouse Front.

Then sew up the center front seam. Now you're back to the traditional Wisteria (so the original Front Facing will now fit). But we are not finished yet! Remember that I started with 3 flute units and pieced them together? The joining seam finished up about 3-4" up around the neckedge from center front and I did not like seeing the seam. In a solid fabric, it might have disappeared, but in this sheer print, you could really see it. I had enough fabric left to cut 1 more pair of 3" flutes. I seamed them together at the outer curved edge (same as earlier), leaving the ends open. However, I decided I wanted this top flute to be a little bit smaller (narrower) than the first flute layer, so while I was sewing the outer curved edge, I made the adjustment then. After sewing the first seam, I used my foot as a guide and sewed another seam 1/4" in (toward the neck) all the way around the outer edge. Then I repeated this, so I technically had removed 1/2" from the width of the finished flute. I serged off the seam allowances, pressed, and basted the neck edges together.

Here is where you would scratch your head if you had not done this before. By making the flute narrower, I reduced the amount of flute (curve) ratio. In other words, it would not flute as much and not have a very pleasing effect. No problem. I ran a couple of pull threads around the neckedge. Then I found the exact center and placed that at center front. Then I planned the end to allow for spinning out into the neck seam and just covering the seam that showed on the lower layer. Then I gathered everything in between. Baste it all together and then proceed with the regular assembly of the Wisteria Sleeveless Pullover.

The back has a small amount of flute, not very much, but enough for my taste, so I am happy with the final outcome. Silk Chiffon can be a challenge to work with, but it is so soft and wonderful to wear. You feel special all day, just having the fabric touch you!

Completed Ruffled Wisteria