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Changing a Vent Back Neckline to a Pullover
Have you ever had a Basic Shell or similar pattern with a back vent and center back seam - and had the great idea to eliminate the back vent and just make it a pullover? This is an easy conversion, but you will need to enlarge the neck area as a Basic shell or similar pattern is designed to fit closer around the neck area - and it won't fit over your head. The black top in the picture started with a Basic Shell with a back seam and back vent opening. On the pattern Front, lower the center front cutline 1/2" and then redraw the curve so there is no change at the shoulder seam. On the pattern Back, draw in the seamline and use this new line as the center back - and place this line on a fold when laying out your pattern for cutting. Make a test garment using the front, back and facing pattern pieces to check that this will fit over your head. If you are pleased with the fit, then you now have a new pattern! It's just that easy. You can safely lower the center front up to about 1" without any problem and you can safely widen the space between center front and the shoulder area about 1/2". If you widen any more than that, you 'may' start to have a little gaping, but it all depends on your body and making a test garment will help you determine just how far you go without having to make other adjustments. In the black top pictures, I then bound the neckline and sleeves to match the skirt so I had a complete outfit. If you're thinking of binding, remember to remove the seam allowances so your finished edge will be correct. The top is the Basic Shell and the Skirt is the New Castle Skirt in the longer length and layered version.

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Making a Test Pair of Pants
Have you ever measured your waist and hips - sat on a chair and measured for crotch depth, etc. - made the pants - and they didn't fit right? A pattern for basic pants or dress slacks is such an important part of your wardrobe, that they are well worth th investment of perfecting the fit. They should feel absolutely great - and make you feel fabulous! After you've done all that measuring - here is a tip to making a pair of Test Pants that will help you get a wonderful fit.

1) Cut out a pair of pants and using long machine stitches, assemble following the basic directions - do NOT do anything fancy! Center the zipper using long stitches for easy removal when finished.
2) Put the pants on, pin the waistband closed and see how they fit. Walk around the room, sit down, reach for something, etc. Now look in the mirror and see what changes you might like to make to your final pattern. You can easily pin the side seams or center back seam if too large - or take a tuck across the front (or back) if the crotch depth is too long. If the crotch depth is too short, cut across the pants and insert a piece of fabric, allowing the slit to open up until you have the desired fit.
3) Remove the pants and carefully make any final adjustments to you paper pattern. If you REALLY want a fabulous fit repeat the Test Garment steps. You’ll be surprised that you will still want to make changes after a second test garment - but the final result will be FABULOUS!
This technique is included in the Basic Slant Pocket Pants

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Rounded Back Pattern Adjustment If you have a rounded upper back, you are not alone. As women mature, we all tend to curve our shoulders forward and thus have a rounded back. Neckline will pull and be uncomfortable and sleeves will pull as well. The adjustment is really quite easy. 1) Cut in from the Center Back to seamline at armhole (cut only to the seamline). Pivot upper pattern piece up, allowing a tuck to form at the neck area. 2)With tissue beneath pattern, tape the slash and tuck to prevent movement. 3)Corect neckline at Center Back. Correct around neck curve if needed as well. Make sure the finished neckline measurement is the same as the pattern was befoe alternation - so a the collar will still fit.

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