Bias Trim Hemline or Edge Finish
This is a fast, inexpensive and decorative edge or hemline finish.
--- You will need to prepare enough bias to reach around your hemline - or the edge you are finishing. Measure the length required and add 10-12" - this will be the amount (length) of prepared bias you will need. To determine the width to cut your bias strips, decide how much you want to show when finished (1/4" is nice). Double that amount - then add 2 seam allowances. So . . . if you want to have 1/4" showing when finished - and your seam allowances are 1/2" - your formula will be: 1/4" + 1/4" + 1/2" +1/2". Cut enough strips that when pieced together you will have the total length previously determined.
-- Press the entire length of pieced bias strips in half - wrong sides together.
-- Pick a point of beginning (a side seam, underarm seam or other inconspicious place). Begin pinning the bias strip, raw edges even, to the edge of your garment. To handle the beginning/ending of the bias strips - leave about 1-2” free at the beginning, work all the way around to your point of beginning - then on one end (beginning end) of the bias, fold in about 1/2”. Trim the other end of the bias so the raw end will extend into the other piece at least 3/4”. Tuck the one end inside the other end and pin to hold.
-- Stitch the bias to the garment using the appropriate seam allowance (in our example, it is 1/2") Serge the raw edges, turn to the inside (so the bias sticks out) and topstitch to secure. The pictures at the right show 1) the bias trim pinned to a sleeve hem and 2) the finished bias trim press out and topstitched.

--- To piece bias strips together, place 2 ends, right sides together - one across and one down. Stitch diagonally. Trim edges and seam. Press seam open.

This technique is included in the Raglan Topper, Oaxacan Shirt, and the Mayan Skirt

Tips on Dealing with Piping
I love piping. It's such a fabulous way to add 'spark' to any project - it's very inexpensive and the technique is easy to master on a fundamental level. On the other hand, if you've every tried to make piping from a thick or slippery fabric you may have encountered a few challenges.

Making Piping from Slippery Fabric
When working with slippery fabric (washed dupioni silk is pictured) the piping filler will want to pull - thus creating a gathered effect. It is important that the filler and casing remain smooth - not puckered. Place a pin through the fabric and the filler a little behind your presser foot - then stitch for 6-8” - then gently pull the fabric/filler smooth - move the pin closer - and repeat the process.

Remove the Filler for a Smoother Finish
When you are inserting piping in a seam that will be stitched over in a future step, you want to reduce the bulk created by the piping filler. Insert a pin about 3” back from the edge of the trimmed piping to hold the piping filler in position. Using your fingers or a pair of tweezers, grasp the piping filler and pull out about 1/2” (or the amount of seam allowance you will be stitching). Cut off the piping filler. Gently pull on the piping fabric and allow the filler to slip up inside the casing. Remove the pin and proceed with assembly. The beautiful dupioni silk piping is used in the single-fabric version of the Shanghai Shawl - while a cotton piping is used in the pieced version of the same pattern.