*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

Website
Brensan Home
Pattern Home

Patterns
Brensan - Garments
Pickle Patch
Crazy Hungarian
Lucky Charm

Wholesale
Wholesale Price List
Wholesale Info
Press
Order Form (W/S)
Email - Contact

Retail
Where to Find
Retail Orderform
Mail List
Contact

** Bren's Bits
**Calendar

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  * 

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *

November 3, 2008 A Different Way to Install a Fly Zipper If you hate putting in fly zippers - and wish you could find a better, faster, and easier way, give the following method a try. 1) With front raw edges even, and right sides together, pin the Pants Fronts together at the center front. With very long stitches, baste through all layers from upper edge, down center front line and stopping at lower dot. 2) Machine stitch the fronts together from lower dot to notch in curve (not all the way to the inseam). Stitch again at 3/8” as this is a high-stress area and the extra stitching will prevent seam stress. You ‘can’ clip the curve to the stitching line - or you can plan on trimming the seam and zig-zagging edge later to finish seam - I do not clip, but prefer to trim and zig-zag later. 3) Press flys open lightly - with fingers or a light touch of the iron. 4) Lay the zipper face down with the zipper base (metal stop) even with the lower dot and the outer edge of the zipper tape along the center front seamline. Note: These instructions are for ladies’ pants - for men’s pants, lay the zipper to the right of the seam and do all instructions in reverse. 5) Pin the zipper to the fly extension only. Machine stitch the zipper tape to the fly extension about half-way between zipper teeth and edge of zipper tape. 6) Fold the zipper back, smooth out the fly extension and top-stitch through all layers close to folded edge - making sure to keep far enough away from zipper teeth so they don’t catch. Now for the tricky part . . . 7) With the wrong side of the pants up (towards you), grasp the zipper tape in your right hand and gently pull toward the right until the fly extension is smooth. 8) Baste the zipper (yes, by hand!) through all layers. Make sure your basting thread is just below the base of the zipper (this will tell you where the base is when you look at the front). I always baste ‘very’ close to the edge of the zipper tape - this tells me exactly where the edge is when I turn the zipper over to top-stitch. 9) Turn the Pants over - with the right side up. Using a straight edge (I use a clear ruler) and a removable marker, draw a line just inside your basting (on the vertical section) and just below the basting that marked the zipper base - curve over toward center seam - making sure your line clears the base of the zipper. 10) Machine stitch along your guideline. Remove basting. Note: You can also stitch-in-the-ditch a few stitches along the center front seamline - up the opening of the zipper to add extra reinforcement during wear. Note: If you want the additional flap under the zipper (like men’s wear), remove the center front machine basting before Step 6, place a prepared flap under the zipper teeth and top-stitch all layers together. Then pin the zipper back together and proceed with garment assembly.

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *

Fast and Easy Hidden Zipper This is a great zipper when you have a flap or pocket to hide it under. 1) Cut a piece of fabric 2" wide and 1" longer than your desired zipper length. Fuse or apply interfacing to the back of the Zipper Facing. Serge or finish edges. Draw a line exactly down the middle of the Facing - on the wrong side. Mark the desired location of the bottom of the zipper - remember the seam allowance at the waist edge (so for a finished 7" zipper - the dot would be 7 1/2"from the upper edge - assuming seam allowance is 1/2") 2) Place the Zipper Facing to the fabric, right sides together and with the center line where you want the zipper. 3) Pin the facing to secure. With small stitch length, stitch 1/4” from the center line, down one side, across the bottom and back up the other side - creating a long rectangle. 4) Cut down the center of the rectangle to within 3/8” of the end - clip into corners. 5) Turn to wrong side, pull facing to reverse and press well. 6) Turn back to ight side. Place zipper under opening. Pin or Baste in position. Be careful that the upper opening remains 1/2” - this is an easy place to get off and your garment will be bigger than you expected. 7) Topstitch through all layers close to the edge of fabric to secure zipper. Remove basting. This technique is included in the Wrong Sarong Skirt

*  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *  *

Zipper Jewelry I was preparing for a talk on Zipper Techniques recently and doing a bit ofresearch on the internet. I came across an absolutely fabulous website of Zipper Jewelry designed by Kate Cusack. She also does Costume Design and some funky wearables - take a minute and explore her website! Another great Zipper Embellishment idea I found is to use a brass zipper as 'piping' on a collar. This is an excerpt from Embellish Chic by Connie Long (published by Taunton)- it's on page 2.