* * * An Explanation of the various types of jackets in the Brensan Pattern Line* * *

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I know that jacket patterns are the most popular thing to make or most of my customers, so I thought it would be nice to talk for a bit about the different 'types' of jackets in the Brensan Pattern Line.

Here is a typical description from the back of the Tasmania Jacket pattern:

"The flattering flames on this jacket are repeated on the back and sleeves, while the long neckline opening matches the front accent flames for an equally flattering neckline.  The easy jewel-neck design has optional piping around the entire outer jacket edge and lower sleeves.  The jacket is fully lined and the pattern includes complete instructions for handling the curves and points as well as the lining. This is a Designer’s Level jacket pattern which I hope you enjoy for many years."

In the description for the Tasmania Jacket, I used the term "Designer's Level Jacket" -- just WHAT does that mean, anyway?????

In my jacket line, there are 3 types of jacket patterns:

	1. One Size (No fit at all) These are not really jackets at all, but it makes sense to include them with the jackets.  They have no true sleeve and no true shoulders. Examples: Calypso and Shanghai Shawl
	2. Casual Fit (Comfortable and no tailoring) Think Coldwater Creek's type of fit -- these are really shirts with linings.  The armhole is larger and lower.  There is no shoulder pad and no internal support.  They will give you a looser fit, especially across the back at the lower armhole area.  You can fold these flat for packing!  The Casual Fit is what you usually get in a quilty style jacket. Examples: (Quarter Circle, 4x4, Yin Yang)
	3. Designer's Level (sometimes called Classic Fit in my descriptions) Think the look of a suit jacket, but much more comfortable.  These are true jackets with slightly less ease -- but I made the armhole 1/2" lower and slightly enlarged the back of the armhole -- so you get the look of a tailored jacket -- but a finished garment that is much more comfortable -- you can cross your arms or give your friend a hug in this jacket.  These are set-in sleeves.  Although not required, I usually put an internal yoke support (not in patterns) and sleeve heads (also not in patterns) to get a 'polished' look like a typical suit jacket would have.  It's the hidden things that always seem to make something go from nice to special!  If you want information on the internal yoke and sleeve heads, check out the Black Boucle Jacket article in the Techniques Section of the website. Examples: Tasmania Jacket and Topanga Jacket
	All that being said, sometimes a Jacket Pattern doesn't want to fit neatly into any of the above categories. Examples of this are the Aquarius, Mt. Fuji, and Raindrops. The Aquarius is a Dolman Sleeve Pattern inspired by the Japanese Kimono design.  It is completely straight across the top of the shoulders and sleeves so it can be hung on a pole or worn as a jacket.  There are sizes (S-M-L-XL), but there is no actual shoulder and the sleeve is part of the body in the design. Raindrops is a drop-shoulder - and also a lowered armhole design.  This is really a classic design and is very comfortable for OverCoats - coats or jackets that are intended to be worn over other clothes. Mt. Fuji is another Kimono inspired design, but had drop-shoulder sleeves and also has a lowered armhole (like a kimono would have)