|
|
|
| |
Search |
Multiple Words Example:
"cotton batiste" |
| |
Retail
|
|
| |
|
|
|
Wholesale
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
| |
Methods for Finishing Stretch Necklines, Armholes and Hemlines |
Fold-Over Method - Use this method for Hemlines
This is the most fundamental - and simple - method.
1) Fold the raw edge over (wrong sides together) the desired width. Pin in place. Steam gently to set the curve.
You can serge the raw edge first if desired, but because knit does not ravel, it is really not necessary.
2) On right side, top-stitch with: a) a decorative machine embroidery stitch; b) a twin-needle or c) a regular stretch needle and a walking zig-zag stitch |
|
| |
|
Clear Elastic Method (Using Twin Needle) -
Almost the same as the Fold-Over Method
Almost any width clear elastic may be used - the objective is to place the elastic
with one of the edges at the foldline. So . . . if you were folding over 5/8” you
could use 1/2” or even 3/8” clear elastic, but you would need to place the elastic
with the ‘inside’ edge of the elastic at 5/8” from the raw edge of the fabric.
. . . . or . . . you could put the elastic at the raw edge of the fabric and just fold over a smaller allowance - the tiny amount of difference between whatever the pattern specified and the width of your clear elastic would not present a problem.
IMPORTANT - stretch the clear elastic several times to remove the excess stretch - otherwise it will be too large when you are finished
1) On the wrong side of the fabric, place the elastic with one edge of the elastic just inside of the raw edge of the fabric and with the other other side (the inside edge) of the elastic at the point where you will be folding over to hem.
2) Zig-zag the elastic to the neckline close to the raw edge (so it will not show when you fold it over). While you are stitching, pull slightly on the elastic so it has a tiny amount of ‘extra’ stretch.
3) Fold over the hem edge of the neckline and pin in place.
4) Steam gently to set the curve and foldline.
5) Using a twin-needle, top-stitch the hem edge on the right side of the garment. |
Click Image for Larger View
|
| |
|
Separate Band Method
Commonly seen on T-Shirts, this method can use the same fabric, contrasting fabric, or a coordinating rib-fabric.
1) If your pattern does not have a pattern piece for this neckline, measure the cut edge of the neckline and deduct 1/2" for every 6" from the total measurement. Then add seam allowances back to your measurement. Cut a strip the length of your measurement and 4x the finished (visible) width of the band. I use 1/2” seam allowances and 1/2” finished is a very nice measurement, so the band would be 2” wide.
2) Stitch the ends together to form a ring.
3) With wrong sides together and matching long raw edges, press the ring in half.
4) Assume the seam is center back - find and mark the center front of the band
5) Find and mark the center back and the center front of your garment.
6) Matching raw edges, center front and center back, pin the neckband to the garment neck edge. Stitch the seam. Serge or otherwise finish the edge. Press seam allowances away from neckline. |
Click Image for Larger View
|
| |
|
Binding Method - This is great method to show off a stripe or contrasting fabric.
This is my personal favorite!
I use the same measurement method - both the length and the width - that I use for the Separate Band Method. The 2” width works out with just a tiny bit of extra fabric which can easily be trimmed off after the neckline is completed.
1) Follow the measurement instructions for the Separate Band Method
2) Stitch the ends together to form a ring
3) Assume the seam is center back - find and mark center front of the ring.
4) Find and mark center back and center front of the garment.
5) With right sides together, match the center front and center back and pin the binding to the garment neckline edge, gently stretching the garment neck edge to fit the band.
6) Stitch the seam. Do not grade the seam allowances.
7) Fold the binding over the seam allowances and press neatly.
8) Stitch in the ditch through all layers to secure the seam. Trim any excess fabric. |
Click Image for Larger View
|
| |
|
Facing Method
Yes, you can use a traditional facing, but there is a trick so the facing will lay flat and not curl out.
The First Trick: is that the facing must be very slightly (about 1/16”) smaller at the neckline (or armhole) edge. Check your pattern. If you are tracing your own facing, simply trace the neckline of the garment section and the outer cut edge as usual. They, carefully trim off about 1/16” from the neckline edge of the facing.
The Second Trick: is that when you are stitching the facing to the garment, keep the facing portion flat and the garment section bunched (to the left). Make sure you are stitching ‘around’ the curve - do not fall prey to the temptation to pull the edges straight at you stitch - you will have a nicer finish if you stitch the seam as a curve. |
|
| |
|
Decorative Stitching Method
You will need stitch-n-tear stabilizing paper for this method.
1) Turn up the desired hem width and press the fold line. Pin to hold if desired.
2) Cut narrow strips of stitch-n-tear stabilizing paper and pin or baste to the wrong side (inside) of the hem area. Leave the folded edge clear so you can see the edge when stitching as you will need to stitch an equal distance from the folded edge of the hemline.
3) Choose a fairly open decorative embroidery stitch and a contrasting thread (embroidery or regular) and stitch a decorative stitch around the entire edge of the garment.
4) Gently remove the paper from the reverse side. Don’t worry about the tiny fragments too much, they will wash out the first time you wash the garment. |
Click Image for Larger View
|
| |
|
|
